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It's a great gap filler too! Try it out yourself. On previous project I might have spent hours waiting for layers and layers of sand or gravel to dry to achieve the same effect in minutes using the texture paint.
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For me, I've found they're really good at building up and layering between different materials. In most tutorials they're designed to replace a lot of the other steps we've just covered and allow you to cover a base in a light layer in a small amount of time. Some of you might not of used the GW texture paints before but for me they've proven to be really useful. Wouldn't be grim dark enough without skulls! You can obviously add more sand to build up to certain surfaces, as if it has collected in the wind, but you dont want it to appear to be defying gravity. Tip - before the PVA dries, scrape any sand away from any edges or rocks that it may be clinging to at an unnatural angle. I also made sure to use a mix of different skulls form the sprue. Again, the skulls (not too many) were spread out here and there to add a little detail. I'm sure most if not all of you have used sand for basing so I wont go into detail here. TIP - I found bending the ends of the paper clips after sticking them into the cork was much easier than bending it first and then trying to force the bent metal into the cork.Īfter the first two steps here's what I ended up with. Some of the smaller pieces were even skewered onto longer lengths of rebar in strips and then added to the base after. I made sure enough was jutting out at different angles just to add a little variation. If you're making your own, you can use as much as you like - but I've found less is more. To really sell the ruined building look, I though I'd add some rebar to the cork made from paper clips. Also if you are using cork to represent large rocks or boulders, try to avoid straight edges and be sure to break up your pieces and make them as rough as possible. The more pieces you plan on using, the more you should plan where they are to go. I'd recommend playing around for a few minutes with the placement without any glue.
#WARHAMMER 40K DARK HERESY TUTORIAL CRACKED#
But I did want to make sure they seemed cracked and damaged enough to pass as rubble so I made sure to break sections apart, but then remarry those pieces back together to add the cracked effect, without having large disjointed pieces. I made sure there was enough space for one or two minis on the raised area so that once placed you could see each mini clearly without them covering each other.įor this base these large cork sections were meant to represent slabs of concrete or collapsed wall sections so I wasn't too concerned about having straight edges or flat areas. Add in stages allowing each stage to dry before moving onto the next one.Īfter a few minutes of playing around with the pieces of cork I had, I decided to layer up some of the larger blocks to add some height to the rear of the base. If you're using larger pieces, place these first and work around them. Tip - The best advice I can give for this stage is patience. The following steps are super simple but if you want more info - don't hesitate to get in touch!